How To Buy Antique Jewellery
by Charlie Boyd
From spotting rare signed pieces by major maisons, to knowing which elements of fine craftsmanship to look out for, an antique jewellery expert weighs in…
Buying contemporary fine jewellery requires an element of research and know-how, but when it comes to buying antique jewellery, knowledge is king. Whether you’re embarking on building an entire collection, or simply seeking one special piece for a momentous occasion, it helps to speak to the experts. Here, Maurice Moradof, who co-founded Yafa Signed Jewels with his mother Yafa in 1984, shares his expertise on how to buy a sensational piece of antique jewellery. Having amassed one of the world’s most historic fine jewellery collections, featuring important pieces from the 60s, 70s and 80s, including maisons such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari, and Harry Winston, Maurice’s expertise can guide newly-fledged magpies and connoisseur collectors alike.
How To Buy Antique Jewellery
Choose prestigious pieces
“When curating an antique jewelry collection, it’s important to focus on legacy brands and their hero pieces – which are often immediately recognizable to collectors and consumers alike,” says Maurice. “For example, Van Cleef & Arpels are renowned for their butterfly and floral motifs, while the Cartier panther is synonymous with the brand. These sorts of pieces typically retain their value and serve as pillars for growing collections.”
Do thorough research
“Research is your best friend when it comes to curating a thoughtful collection, do some reading and take the time to educate yourself on the brand(s) that you’re interested in purchasing,” advises Maurice. “For example, many people don’t know that Cartier manufactured pieces in London in the 50’s and 60’s, which are marked as such, thus making them incredibly sought after.”
Inspect each piece closely
“Examine the craftsmanship. Always look thoroughly at pieces before purchasing them to analyze the material – watch out for any sort of discoloration or rough metals as true vintage, luxury pieces shouldn’t have those characteristics,” suggests Maurice.
Seek out trusted retailers
“Be patient and find the right retailers to source from,” says Maurice. “Working with experts in the field will help you grow your collection in an informed and curated manner.”
Consider a mono-brand approach
“If you’re just starting out, focus on sourcing pieces from one legacy brand rather than a variety all at once to avoid confusion and lack of cohesion within your collection.”