Yafa Signed Jewels’ Maurice Moradof discusses vintage jewellery trends and expert tips for investing
Tatler sits down with the co-founder of New York-based Yafa Signed Jewels, a curator of museum-quality signed vintage jewellery, to discuss its journey from humble beginnings to a coveted collection
Maurice Moradof and his mother Yafa transformed their modest jewellery brokerage into one of the world’s leading purveyors of museum-quality vintage jewellery. Starting in 1984 as a small operation in New York, they built their reputation by specialising in exceptional pieces from prestigious houses like Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, and Bulgari.
Tatler spoke to Moradof about his journey, his understanding on vintage jewellery and his advise on investing in high jewellery.
How did your journey into the world of vintage jewellery begin? And what inspired you to start Yafa Signed Jewels?
[In 1984,] at the age of 16, along with my mother Yafa, we started to procure jewellery from close friends and their acquaintances to broker deals to make ends meet. Each sale gave us key insights into the preferences of each store owner; vintage jewellery from different eras proved to be the most sought-after from our limited consigned inventory. Eventually, we were able to purchase our own pieces through auctions, estate sales and other dealers. Our collection started to slowly grow and eventually, we opened a small booth in New York’s jewellery district, which soon turned into a showroom and then a retail store.
What experiences or influences have shaped your understanding of the value of vintage jewellery?
As I grew the business, I increasingly realised that vintage jewellery is wearable art and an alternative asset. I started studying the pieces from the big jewellery houses ... Even though these higher-priced pieces required a larger investment, they consistently appreciated year after year. When it comes to Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery, the appreciation over time is quite remarkable. To illustrate, a specific exclusive piece that was priced at US$100,000 during the 1970s would now be incredibly difficult to acquire for less than US$200,000.
Yafa has a remarkable collection from the 1960s, Seventies and Eighties. What criteria do you use when curating pieces for your collection?
We pay close attention to a variety of factors. Firstly, we look at provenance and origin. Secondly, we assess the design and visual characteristics. And lastly, we focus on complications and intricacies. A great example of this is the Cartier Double Headed Panthère bangle that we currently have in our inventory. The Cartier Panthère bangle from the 1970s is a masterpiece of craftsmanship, featuring a level of detail that captivates the eye. Each element, from the panther’s powerful legs to its defined muscles, was meticulously crafted by skilled artisans who devoted countless hours to their work. This exceptional attention to detail is difficult to replicate in today’s world, where efficiency often takes precedence. While the level of detail seen in the 1970s may no longer be feasible, Cartier’s modern creations continue to embody the luxury and elegance that have made the brand synonymous with exceptional jewellery design.
Why are brands such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari so significant in the vintage jewellery market?
Those brands are the face of vintage jewellery and were the first to set a true, long-term luxury standard. They are the strongest names in the space and internationally recognised due to their storied history.
What’s a hidden gem you currently have in your collection?
We have a one-of-one Van Cleef & Arpels diamond necklace from 1949 that is made of approximately 200 carats of diamonds, with the smallest stone being two carats. The piece also features a detachable brooch.
What advice would you give to collectors looking to invest in vintage jewellery? Are there specific pieces, eras and brands that you recommend focusing on?
My advice would be to buy pieces from major houses, such as Cartier or Van Cleef & Arpels, as they retain their value. When looking at a piece of vintage jewellery, it’s important not to just look at its intrinsic value, but also to look at things such as provenance and availability in the marketplace. I’d also recommend focusing on pieces made in the 1960s to 1980s, as those designs are not in production any more and now serve as inspiration points for new collections.
What trends are you currently observing in the vintage jewellery market?
It depends on which market you’re looking at. In America, for example, there is a fondness for yellow gold and rose gold jewellery. Earrings and rings are also two products that sell the most here in the USA. In Asia, we have found that our clients gravitate more towards pins, brooches, pearls, white diamonds, emeralds and rubies.
Finally, any fun stories you can share about a piece that has passed through Yafa’s hands?
We had a pair of Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set earrings that previously belonged to Frank Sinatra’s wife Barbara. The earrings have a wing motif on them, and [the client who brought the piece in] said that they inspired Frank when he recorded Fly Me to the Moon.